Monday, October 30, 2017

On Hold

I am putting this blog on hold. As beautiful as the concept of journaling through this time is, the reality is that my brain is in survival mode, not creative mode. Please bear with me. I may check back in, in a few months or more. Please follow me on Instagram if you would like photo updates.

https://www.instagram.com/c.l.billing/

Saturday, September 9, 2017

Foundations of Love

As a parent, have you ever stopped to think about how much of the positive interactions you have with your child are due to the history of loving feelings you have with your child that stabilize your actions and hold you through the hard behaviors? A person could call this positive history, the backbone of the feeling of patience that helps the parent love the child through the childishness.  This history begins when the baby is in the womb and only gets stronger with all of the cuddles and coos through babyhood, the cuteness through the toddler years and so on. It is the foundation of attachment. What if this history of attachment and love are not there on the parent's side? The child just plopps into your life with all of their childishness and none of their babyhood? Step parents understand this. Foster parents understand this. And so do adoptive parents. And I am feeling it now.

These kids are just kids. The more English they learn the more I see the differentiation of the "normal" age appropriate developmental issues and the non-age appropriate developmental issues. Daily I dig in, take a deep breath, and ask God for his backbone of patience as the stabilizing bond develops. The bond is developing, although much slower than I want.

Friday, August 18, 2017

A Reminder for Today

Firm and kind (gentle). Not firm and rough. Petra especially is sensitive to mistreatment and Penka needs good examples toward gentle discipline. This is easier said than done, but when redirecting, roughness is never the answer. "Man's anger does not produce the righteousness of God." "Share in the suffering as a good soldier of Christ Jesus....An athlete is not crowned unless he competes according to the rules." "On her tongue is the law of kindness...she extends her hands to the needy," I tell these verses to myself regularly..... These kids are wearing on me. When they are not listening, Crystal, take their hand gently and firmly and guide them in the correct way.

Children are a Blessing

My Mother-in-Law posted this on Facebook. I can't agree more. It strikes a deep chord with me because I did not understand this concept until Miriam was around age 5. I was finding myself too focused on her bad habits when she actually was a super sweet, cute, kind, generous, and spunky little girl. As soon as I started talking to myself of her goodness, low and behold she became more that person and started losing her bad habits quickly. Like your children mothers. Focus on who God made them! Know they are children and they will grow out of their childish behavior. The more you think on them the good, the more and faster they become that good little person. 

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Having the 4 older adopted kids I am finding this is a very real issue for me currently also. Something I know from past experience is that every child has something unique and lovable in their persons even if it is clouded by negative behavior (which the negative is hard to love/like). But it is so important to remind yourself of who the special child is in your own mind and out loud regularly because this gets translated to the child through Mom and Dad's actions and words. These 4 adoptees are no exception. 

Here is a list I wrote for my refrigerator just a couple days ago of things I can do to remind me easily of ways to bond and share "happy times" together. It is pretty basic, but might be helpful to some other moms none-the-less. 

Read Books
Board games
Legos
Lotion Massages
Hair Combing
Trampoline Jumping
Walks to the Park
Crafts
Bake Cookies Together
Bike Rides Together
Roller Skating Together
Swimming/Floating
Tickle Fights

Thursday, July 27, 2017

Three More Days

Today is Thursday of our overwhelmingly long "vacation." No, not vacation, mission. "Mission" is a much better word for this trip. It has been anything but a vacation.  We fly to the States on Sunday, very early. Today is day 11 with the children. Justin likens the chaos to a mathematical formula with an exponential factor, 4 factorial. That is 1x2x3x4= 24. When you take one child out of the picture the emotional chaos = 6, only two children you have a hardship of 2 so on. In my mind, I can see placid calm at 2 months. "2 months Crystal, 2 months...." I can hang on through the initial blustery storms.

Saturday and Sunday we had a very good couple of days. Bonding was going well and there were many happy moments coupled with moments of sadness and grief, along with henpecks among the children. Things were on the upside though. Every day we were getting less fighting among the children. Monday morning we allowed the children to contact their foster families. Everything took a steep downhill from there for 24 hours. Monday night all the children had packed their bags and were ready to take the first bus back to their villages. In the morning things were still not good. The kids were acting out significantly and were out of control. Ivan ran across the busy street out of rebellion of the hold hands rules. The streets here are very busy and a little chaotic so that sort of rebellion is very scary. Justin's emotional stamina was tapped. But he reached out for help from the social workers. They came and spent the afternoon with us, talked through the grieving with the children and things settled back down.

Yesterday we had a good day, although Ivan was definitely calling for negative attention through being a very pesky little brother and not listening to us. He says, "No Engliske" when we try to talk to him. He knows more English than any of the children. Justin has a hard time with this and is in need of a break emotionally from the kids, but is trying hard for patience and to see long term. Ivan, with love and attention, will settle down. Currently, Justin took Ivan to the park to spend the morning with him alone with the hopes that Ivan's "love cup" will get filled a little and he will quit being so pesky and needy.

There seems to be a direct correlation with how Penka is feeling (missing her foster family) and how much she lashes out at the other children. Sometimes she is trying to help us keep the kids in line and sometimes she is actively lashing out towards them. Although even with Penka I see small improvements. Yesterday while I was sitting she came up and laid her head on my back to cuddle.

Petra is doing well and is coming to me for help most of the time and a refuge from the verbal and physical attacks from Penka and Ivan. Petra is becoming accustomed to being redirected and living with secure boundaries. She is settling well.

Donka is just cute and doing super. She has been riding on my back on walks and dozing off like a small child. This is a very good thing although exhausting. My arms are getting very strong!

We only have 3 more days in Bulgaria and we are so ready to go home. We are counting the days.

Saturday, July 22, 2017

Getting Gypped

Ever heard the term, getting gypped? Where does it come from? All gypsies are thieves and dirty, right? This prejudice is disgusting and very alive in Bulgaria. Our kids have darker skin than most of the Bulgarians in Sofia. Because of that they get stares, scowls, people move away from them on buses and park benches, and other children attack them. Seriously. Being here causes me to highly appreciate the tranquility of race and culture in America. Even through all the current turmoil surrounding race back home, America is a gift to the world and a beautiful place where the average American believes we are all created equal with the same rights. From the children's psychologist to the waiting room mother, to the kids on the street, too many of Sofia's population look and talk to my children as if they are dirty. There is no place for them to break out of the mold here.  Coming to America even just for the simple sake of being given a fair, unadulterated chance to be equal with their neighbor, is a massive reason to get my beautiful little gypsies out of Bulgaria.

The children taunt each other, "Sygani, sygani." I communicated to Penka the other day that in America sygani (gypsy) is not bad, but it is good; I like that she is a gypsy. I told her that in America there are all different kinds of people. Yesterday I picked up enough of the language to understand she was reiterating this to the other children.

Hen Pecks

So who is the top of the roost? That is the question in this house. Justin and I are tired. The hen pecks don't seem to quit. Yesterday we went for much of the day without too much bickering. But then at 5pm it exploded waiting for the taxi after a day at the pool. We are told that these next few weeks will be bad as they all figure out where their place is in the family group. But it is getting very very wearisome. I know all kids fight, but these guys do it about 20 times more than "normal" families, along with test all of Justin and my boundaries to figure out what is okay and not okay in our family system.  It is six days into our new family. I want to go home to stability and peace, more household space and establish a routine. Not being able to communicate and talk them down out of the bickering is probably the hardest part.

This morning Petra woke up shaking in fear from a nightmare. I held her and she did not want to be let go. This morning Donka came and laid her head on my lap and cuddled for many minutes. Bonding is happening, and it is good.


Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Sweet Prayers

Somebody has been plowing the soil of these children's hearts. Last night as I was tossing and turning and not sleeping, I had the idea of downloading a Bulgarian audio Bible. I found a free one on Amazon that came in 1-5 minute clips. Tonight before bed we listened to 3 minutes of Matthew and then prayed. The two older girls prayed aloud in Bulgarian with Justin and I (in English) and then Penka asked me to "sing a song to Jesus." (This was the way it translated.) After a few songs, she proceeded to show me her favorite singer on Youtube, Tanq I Dani (Tanya and Dan). It was actually very pleasant. Somebody has been praying for them and teaching them to pray. It brings tears to my eyes. I am reminded and can be reminded in the tough times that I am only a worker in God's field. He is the one growing. It is not a small task we have been given, but with God in charge, it is all worth it. He will accomplish the task he began.

Today was a tough day. Tonight was a sweet night.

It is good morning time. Our first morning together is the
first morning for the children in many years.

Monday, July 17, 2017

Jet Lag

An update on Day 1

The transfer went as expected. All the kids broke down in tears as they entered the van. But it lasted only about 20 minutes. After that they saw an airplane and got excited.

Petra is the one we are having the most trouble with so far, but that is expected. Petra is also the one who has asked for physical affection from me, which is a very good sign. Last night she had a screaming tantrum because we would not allow her and Ivan to sleep together. We allowed them to try but they just kept winding each other up more and more and after 1+ hours of giving them chances, I said no. She threw a 4-year-old style fit and I had to hold her in my arms for a while as she screamed. I am not sure this girl has had any firm boundaries for the last 3 years. She does not act like it. She is very difficult to redirect. She asked for sugar or candy at least a dozen time yesterday. Finally, she ate her dinner of spaghetti after not eating lunch and just a little bit of apple for a snack. She has a really good heart, is very sweet and caring but doesn't have any self-regulation. I am not convinced it is ADHD though. I think it might be her past environment. I have put all the kids on methyl-folate and we will try hard to avoid the sugars for a long while with all of them. Ivan and Petra both look thin currently and a little gaunt.

On the upside, a lack of "honeymoon" is actually a good sign. The least amount of the honeymoon stage means less insecurity they feel and the issues are more superficial than deep.

Penka is amazing. Kind and grown up and tries her best to help me with the young ones. She is a doll.

Ivan is doing a little better than expected. Ivan is scared and cries at times throughout the day. But it is healthy grieving. At other times he plays and laughs well.

Donka does whatever Petra does, but is generally cute and silly. She does not want me to touch her much yet. I have told myself to do what feels natural, trust my instincts with physical affection and let the kids lead on that one. The books all say give back to them 200% of how they reach out to you. If they give you a big hug, hug them twice as hard back, that sort of thing.

I found myself a little sleepless last night. I think I got 2 hours of good sleep and the rest was just tossing and turning. I finally got up at 4am. It was partially jet lag, partially cortisol from dealing with a 9-year-old temper tantrum.

My question is: How long until they learn to trust me and accept me as their mother? My heart is already there and loves all of them very much. But I know it will take time.

In the midst of the cortisol and strain, I still feel much joy.

Sunday, July 16, 2017

Sofia Apartment



Driving with the taxi driver today from the airport through Sofia, I felt a connection with this place; which I should. We are now intimately connected with Bulgaria. These are my people now.


I like Sofia much more in summer. It is green and pleasant and feels much cleaner. Today it was pouring rain.


Our apartment in Sofia. It is nice, spacious, and smells a tad bit like stale smoke. It will suit us well for the week. Graffiti here is an art form and does not signify gangs as it usually does in the states. It is a safe city concerning violent crime. Petty theft is the main crime issue. We found a nice grocery store and a park a block away.



Thursday, July 13, 2017

Momma Bear

The other night I had a dream that Penka and Donka were with a social worker and were looking for us. We were in Bulgaria in a hotel room but they did not know which room we were in. The three of them crashed into the room while the social worker was scolding and being harsh and abusive toward them. They did not know we were in the room. My momma bear motherly instincts rose up inside me and I got in between the woman and the two children and began rolling on the ground with the two girls. I took them firm and gentle from the harshness in the way a momma bear treats her young. As we rolled they melted into me and softened from the kindness and togetherness.

I know this was a dream. I know dreams are primarily insights into one's intuition. I only hope that I will be able to be that momma bear for these children in protection and in love, and kindness.

Monday, July 10, 2017

Jitters

I was asked by a friend today how my emotions are now that we are less than a week from flying to Bulgaria. Well, I am beginning to fret a bit I think. I am not really a fretter. Justin is, and he has been fretting for months! But today I packed their bags. Today I organized Miriam's schedule for 2.5 weeks, I put a hold on USPS mail for two weeks, I got rid of stuff, which seems to be my way of dealing with stress. My mind is having a hard time settling down. I could not even read a book this evening because I could not concentrate.  So yes, I am feeling the jitters.

We have been told the kids are "very anxious to get the travel agendas." This is good news. They are excited to become Americans! When we talked with the youngest over skype this weekend there were many kids she was with and she did not want to talk but to play. We thought perhaps it was a going away party. Her foster mother called her "My little American." So cute. Most Bulgarians love America.

It is funny how I already love them all individually. Even without physical contact, a place for each child has been well carved inside this momma's heart.

These photos are all from January and some from Facebook from their foster families pages. Here are the children.

Penka

Petra

Ivan

Donka





Monday, April 24, 2017

Grieving the Holy Spirit

Here are a few thoughts on a verse for you.

Ephesians 4:25-32
Therefore, putting away lying, “Let each one of you speak truth with his neighbor,” for we are members of one another. “Be angry, and do not sin”: do not let the sun go down on your wrath, nor give place to the devil. Let him who stole steal no longer, but rather let him labor, working with his hands what is good, that he may have something to give him who has need. Let no corrupt word proceed out of your mouth, but what is good for necessary edification, that it may impart grace to the hearers. And do not grieve the Holy Spirit of God, by whom you were sealed for the day of redemption. Let all bitterness, wrath, anger, clamor, and evil speaking be put away from you, with all malice. And be kind to one another, tenderhearted, forgiving one another, even as God in Christ forgave you.

I have always read this verse in a semi-self centered way. That is, when I am unkind (bitter, wrathful, angry, etc.) it grieves God. I had a contrary thought recently to record. The thought occurred to me that the Holy Spirit is fully empathetic. That is he feels what we feel. This thought, that the Holy Spirit is fully empathetic, hit a deep bone inside me. He knows. He really knows and experiences the pain that I go through when I am hurting. It grieves him, it hurts him when I am in pain. It grieves him when you are in pain. It grieves him when I cause someone else pain. This is a very subtle but profound shift in viewing this passage; to take the lens off the sin itself and onto the effect of the sin on the other person and on God himself. Another verse that I can liken it to is, "Assuredly, I say to you, inasmuch as you did it to one of the least of these My brethren, you did it to Me" (Matthew 25). This is taking the spotlight off of the good deed, and instead, putting the spotlight on the empathetic nature of God. When we do good to another person, God experiences it just as if we were doing a kind thing to him.


They say that empathy is the number one skill that human beings need to learn for relational success. Empathy is the ability to feel what another person is feeling, differing from compassion which is acting to help another person who is hurting. Compassion does not require empathy but they often go together. All humans have the capacity for empathy and it is a learned skill. It is not just a concept. The same parts of the brain as in the hurting person are activated in the empathetic brain when the other person is hurting. The same brain regions light up just as if that person was actually hurt. The empathetic person actually joins in the other person's pain. Empathy is primarily taught as a young child, infant to age 4 and perhaps a little older. It is the number one fruit of attachment parenting. When a child's emotional and physical needs are met and his caregivers respond to the child with empathy and compassion, day after day, it builds the empathic centers of the brain. With intention and patient loving care, older children and adults can learn empathy also.

Monday, March 13, 2017

A Twittle Nest

It's March. Can you believe it? It is the middle of March and still waiting. In January, I was so sure we would be in Bulgaria now receiving our children. These last two months have perhaps been the most surreal time in my life history. I have four children who I can almost legally call my own sitting across the globe waiting for their new mom. Waiting? That is the hard part. What are they thinking, feeling, wishing for, feeling sad about? What are they excited for? Scared?

We have been skyping once a week with the children. Saturday morning, 8 am sharp. It has been quite consistent actually. It is 6 pm there in Bulgaria. At first, it was really awkward. They waved, we waved. Remember they speak zero English, we do not speak Bulgarski. So we smiled, and we waved. We smiled some more, then oh, I know, I can show them the house! Well, that was one week what about the next. It has gotten a little less awkward. The two olders are beginning to learn English so they have their book in front of them and try to ask us questions. This week they asked us how old we are. It sounded like this, "How aaarreewo yuo?" It took them about 5 attempts for us to figure out the "old" word. Language. It is not going to be an easy task! It is comforting to know that almost 80% of communication is body language. And perhaps for someone like me even more than average. I am a very poor verbal communicator and I rely heavily on body language and facial expression. In this situation, it might actually be a blessing.

Our I800 hopefully will be processed soon. After two months of waiting for it, we finally got the specific corrections and found out that we were given outdated forms! Oy ve. I am not sure how long this will set us back. At least a month, which is why we do not have our flights booked yet. The I800 is still waiting for approval to be sent to the next step. Just this morning our new papers arrived at their offices. Hopefully they will prioritize them and speed the process for us so we don't have to wait another month or more for this step. After this step, the papers go to one other location within the U.S. to get the children's visas. Then after that approval, the papers are sent to Bulgaria to finalize the adoption. Then we can go get the kids.

The house is ready. Beds are set up. Basics of clothing purchased. Training modules are almost completed. I am simply twittling. Perhaps nesting is the more correct term.

Friday, January 20, 2017

Reflections

Psalm 88:1, "I will sing of the Lord’s great love forever; with my mouth I will make your faithfulness known through all generations. I will declare that your love stands firm forever that you have established your faithfulness in heaven itself."

We arrived home safely and non-eventful on Monday as expected. The documents are signed and now we wait 1-3 months for the adoption to be finalized.

Final preparations of the home need to be made within the next month. Adoption training modules and books are to be read. School curriculum needs to be chosen, and clothing purchased now that I know their current sizes.

A lot of emotions are being processed. Fear and excitement simultaneously and a maternal love when I think of them and look at their photos. It goes something like this, "Ahhh, she's so cute!" after I look at one of their pictures. That type of affection I was beginning to feel in a real way the last 2 days we were in Bulgaria. I remember a couple moments I really wanted to hold and cuddle the children. The times are coming and I am looking forward to all those precious little daily moments.

At the same time, there is an overwhelming worry. Oh man, this is a huge task! Can we handle it? The first 6 months are going to be oh so difficult without communication. I keep reminding myself, I am not alone. Not only do I have a strong support network locally I also have a helper, the Holy Spirit, guiding me and working internally with the children. The voice in my head repeats, "Crystal, you are made for this task, and have been equipped for it. It will be difficult but you can do it."

Thursday, January 12, 2017

Day 4

I want to reiterate that the kids are very sweet and have bonded well with their foster homes which is a huge factor, the biggest in our decision process. There are still some rough edges but over time we are confident these will smooth. Thank you to all who are praying for us! It means so much and we really felt it today!

The culture here in Bulgaria is very different than America. Some of the negative issues are due to culture differences. The social services are going to work with the older two over the next month or so to resolve conflict they had not known existed. The girls live across the hall and have a lot of interaction. Their blow up on Tuesday was not normal and probably due to the pressures they felt. But I think it may have been embarrassing to the social services here. We at least got a glimpse of some of the harder issues. We also found a very sweet English teacher who will give them lessons twice a week. She was very encouraging.

My goal in my blog through the next year or two is to write openly about the joys and struggles of adoption to the extent of decency in public with my kids so people, outsiders, can have a realistic view of the good and the hard sides.

Today went very well without too many busy women in the room. The second child, the expressive one settled down, the weather warmed up and we could take a couple good walks and some much more real connection and bonding happened. Tomorrow we sign papers and begin the journey back home.

Wednesday, January 11, 2017

The Struggle

I wrote this as an email but have decided to post on the blog to document it for journaling purposes. It was written after the Wednesday visit in Bulgaria or early Thursday morning.

Thursday morning update:
Please continue praying. Things here feel weighty.

The social workers were concerned about some conflicts that happened Tuesday in between the children and they brought in their local "psychologist" (think 70-year-old communist) who was thoroughly unimpressive and who has a relationship with the children. It has been frustrating because the issues have nothing to do with us but the way the kids are interacting with each other and we just sit back and watch and not interact with the kids. These things should have and could have been dealt with in advance of us coming. It is still awkward in the meeting rooms although I do not feel overwhelmed/shy like Monday. #2 has been the struggle. She has more issues than what was documented. We can't tell if they are developmental, attachment or her just resisting being adopted. She is very expressive in every way, does not seem to focus for more than a couple minutes (she is 9) and the main instigator when the children get in conflicts. She generally is looking for attention.

The concrete objective of the trip is for us to see the children and spend the week with them, then to sign papers if we still want them on Friday. So far we have not seen anything we were not expecting except perhaps #2 has more issues than what was written. Bonding is our agency's objective, but it is not concrete. The local social workers have been very much in the way so it is hard to make thorough judgments or bond with the children. We have 1.5 days left with the kids. #1 the oldest is far better than expected but the #2 has more issues. These are really tough kids like street kids. They did almost live on the streets previously. So the first objective along with bonding would be to "gentle them." We are going to hire an English tutor for the two older girls for after school sessions so they can at least begin. The oldest is already trying on her own to learn.

What I have seen and my main concern is the lack of English communication. The kids fight enough that I can see our first 6 months are going to be very difficult without me being able to talk through conflict with them. All of them are responsive to redirection with the exception of #2, but this may not be typical of her we are not sure.

Today we spend the last full day. After lunch we have been told that there will be no social workers with us only our translator. Tomorrow the children go home around noon and we sign papers and get on the train at 4:30.

Monday, January 9, 2017

Meeting 1

I met my babies today. My goodness, I couldn't ask for sweeter kids. The day went well. The language barrier is really hard, especially when there are many other men and women in the room with us to take care of needs. The children do not necessarily run to us for assistance.


Praises:

Everyone is healthy.

The oldest is wonderful. I was most worried about her transition to our family at her age. But what her foster mother said was that after she received the photo book I made she was all ours. I won her heart with the book and emotionally she is already transferring attachments. She is the sweetest thing in the world and may just be the easiest to transition, at least initially.

The girls adore Miriam. Straight from the get go, all they wanted to do was hold "sista's" hand, play with her, and touch her hair.

The kids are excited to meet Bea, our puppy.

The children are lively, playful and have a definite bond with each other. Upon greeting they were hugging and touching each other and very sweet. After a few hours, two of them started rough playing almost bickering, just like normal siblings. The second is exceptionally affectionate and expressive. I saw no unorganized attachment in any of the children. They all seemed very healthy, had appropriate boundaries, and well adjusted.


Things to pray for:

I (Crystal) was feeling really shy and overwhelmed. Towards the end of the day, I was getting to the point of shutting down, where it feels almost painful for me to talk which happens very infrequently in my adult years. This was not because of the children, but because of the many social workers, eyes, and lack of English spoken and 2.5 weeks in a foreign land. Along with everything else, it was emotionally exhausting for me. It would be far better to be put in a big room with just us and we could figure things out together for a personality like me. But as it is we have a psychologist, translator, and other social workers all trying to help us. Pray that I can relax and find an inroad with the children.

It is really cold here. About 15 deg. with a wind chill. Outdoor play is out of the question for any length of time and these are 4 very active children, especially the youngest 3. Pray we can figure it out and find a good play space that works and/or it warms above freezing (0 C/32 F).

Saturday, January 7, 2017

Prayer Update #2

We were told today the schools have been closed Monday because of a flu breakout. Please pray for good health for the three of us and also for the four children next week. Sickness would be a real bummer trip. I am not sure how things would be facilitated if the children or us got significantly sick. So far we have all managed to stay healthy. The weather here is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit with a significant chilly wind blowing.

Prayer Update



We met with the social workers last week on Tuesday. They briefed us a little on what to expect next week meeting the children. Today is Saturday so it is only 2 days away! Tomorrow we leave Plovdiv to go to the town they live in, Dimitrovgrad.


We have a pretty big task next week lined out for us. It is the week that is primarily dedicated to "transition." The next time we will see the kids after this trip they will be ours and we will pick them up and bring them to a different town in a hotel for 2 weeks then to America. They not only need to transition to us, but also to one another. They live with 4 different foster families currently. The older 2 may not really know the younger 2 much at all anymore. So part of the big task is reaffirming a bond with all 5 siblings (Miriam included) and us. What that means practically is providing a happy and positive atmosphere with lots of fun activities, food, and hopefully getting to the point of the children wanting to come to us for physical affection and looking forward to our presence. That is a big task for one week! But again, it is just the beginning. After next week they told us that we will want to send cards and trinkets every few days to keep up the emotional bond and perhaps skype if their foster families have internet access.


Today and tomorrow we will take it easy and enjoy the last bit of sightseeing.

Friday, January 6, 2017

Tired Tourists

I believe I am all touristed out. We are in Old Town Plovdiv. It is beautiful in Old Town, artsy, full of cobblestone streets 6 inches deep in snow, and all Miriam and I want to do is sit in our very fine apartment, watch movies, and eat Nutella with rice crackers. We did get out today somewhat reluctantly and went up the hill to see a small history museum, an old Roman theater, and take some photos. The magic of cobblestone streets has almost worn off I am afraid. Although, it could also be the snow.



The gate of Philippopolis, Philip of Macedon, Alexander the Great's father. Alexander could have learned to ride his horse on these streets.


Old Roman Theatre

Kitty meow. She was very pretty and almost blended with the wall. 
There were many cats on the streets. I think they may be protected.



Thursday, January 5, 2017

Sofia Apartments

I would be dishonest if I did not write a blurb about Sofia's apartments. Plain and simple, they are ugly, rundown, eyes sores. There are not just a few but most, miles and miles of them. I have written about the beautiful history of the churches here, but Bulgaria is still a second world country and it is very visible. Today we drove up to Saint Ivan Rilski Monastery. We took a hostel bus out of town. (Yes, we met in a pot smoking hippy joint...a hostel. That was an education for Miriam in itself, but it was cheap and decent transportation!) It took a full 20-40 minutes just to drive to the outskirts of town. The entire town all the way to the end was full of 10-15 story high rise apartments. The apartments were concrete and stucco. Many windows are blown out or covered with cloth and laundry strung out to dry. The stucco is peeling in most all of them and unoriginal graffiti is the norm covering the lower floor outdoor walls. The amazing thing is that even with all this poverty there is not a lot of real violent crime. It is mostly theft and scams.

Before we came here we thought it was only the Roma's (gypsies) that lived in this sort of housing. But, it is almost all of Sofia! The difference is that the Roma areas are filthy, not just run-down. We have been informed that about 80% of the population lives in "the blocks" as they call the high rise apartments. Average pay here in Sofia is about 1300 lev which translates to about $750. It is amazing that people can live off that amount. Food and clothes are inexpensive, at least half of what they would be in America or perhaps less.

There is a very modern 4 story mall full of new construction, windows, granite floors and escalators, next door to our hotel. When one walks in the doors they can pretend they live in a modern city. It is surreal.

We are in Plovdiv now. It is much nicer, only about 70% of the buildings look like this instead of 90%.

These photos were taken from the window of our 14th floor hotel room. The hotel was very new and modern. These apartments were just across the street. These pictures are mild compared with most.

There are miles and miles of concrete high-rise apartments.



Ivan Rilski Monastery. The dogs were very sweet.

Bell Tower at the Monastery, from around years 1400-1600's

Fresco. Can you pick out which Bible story is depicted? We had fun trying to figure them out.

A walk in the woods. This photo is dedicated to Mike Schaar who we took the photo for. We passed cabins like this for rent in the Balkans! Next time....

Creek

Nice Selfie!




Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Diversity

Justin put on his very first kippa today. Yes, to all of you Messianics who will be astounded at this, he has never before worn one. He has always felt it is not his place to wear one knowing he is not ethnically Jewish. But he has also never stepped into a regular Jewish synagogue either. Today in Sofia, in the second largest synagogue in all of Europe he put one on out of respect for Jewish customs, just the same as he removes his hat in all the Orthodox and Catholic churches.

I almost cried walking into the sanctuary. I don't know why. But a deep emotion hit me. Was it the history, the beauty, or something else in that place? There used to be 50,000 Jews in Bulgaria before WWII. Hitler asked for deportation. But King Boris, a national hero, was able to save all 50,000 according to our tour guide. The good king "procrastinated" and kept giving excuses for not deporting them. 8 days after the king and Hitler met one another the king died of a sudden heart attack according to records. Most Bulgarians believe he was poisoned by Hitler's army. After the war came communism which tried to wipe out all religion. During that time most of the Jews immigrated to Israel and there are now only 5,000 left.

Within a two block radius in the heart of Sofia are 4 major centers of worship all in a square. 1 Jewish synogague, 1 Islamic mosque, 1 Orthodox church, and 1 Catholic church, all very large churches and a couple other smaller rotundas and other church buildings. It is a picture of diversity in real practice. The amazing thing is that there is not a lot of religious trouble in Bulgaria.

Entrance of Saint George Rotunda

Practicing his new reading skills.

Backside of the Sofia Synagogue


Front side of Sofia Synagogue, inside the gate.

Sanctuary of the synagogue.


Ark covering with banners of the 12 tribes. The entire synagogue was detailed with symbols.


Sofia Ladies' Market. I bought myself some wonderful Bulgarian made wool slippers.





Monday, January 2, 2017

Sofia City Center

We have decided that Gru from Despicable Me is from Bulgaria. His accent, nose, and coloring are exactly Bulgarians in Sofia. The people here are dark haired, light skinned and about half have bright green eyes. The other half have dark brown eyes. They seem to have a rough exterior but are very kind and light hearted when one tries to engage in conversation.

"You, Meester nice. I gif 20 lev. You becuss Meester Nice," she said with almost unintelligible English. She was the cutest little squinty eyed lady wearing a happy coy smile. Her sun-wrinkled skin and a hunched shoulders suggested many days working a field. She was wearing a full patchwork fur coat. It was probably hand made and had a large rip down the side under her arm. I was happy to purchase a curved 9 inch long hand made wood and porcelain tobacco pipe and a wooden children's toy from her.


Saint George's Rotunda from the 4th century. It is still somewhat functional.

The church of Saint Sofia. This is the church the city is named after. The church is named after Saint Sofia, a martyr. This church is from the 6th century and is still fully functional and busy. It was one of three Hagia Sofia churches commissioned by Emperor Justinian. The other two are in Thessalonica and Constantinople.

Saint Aleksander Nevski Cathedral built in the early 1900's. 
Archaeology from ancient Serdica from Sofia's city center. There was a public tunnel under the streets that took us to the ruins.


More archaeology from the city center.



East Gate of Serdica. These ruins were just discovered in the last decade when the city was building a new subway system.

This restaurant was located on a narrow cobblestone street. The place we were looking for late the night before and could not find, recommended as the number one authentic Bulgarian cuisine from Lonely Plant Travel Guide. It was well worth a second attempt, before sunset.

Inside the restaurant. The pavilion was covered and surrounded but semi-outdoors. There were large wood stoves just behind us. Each table had blankets to wrap up in for extra warmth. The food was amazing, and so was the ancient interior of the building.




Sunday, January 1, 2017

Sophia Nights

I have decided that I will not leave our hotel here in Sophia after 5:00 pm again this week. We have not necessarily gotten lost, but the language barrier is a very real thing. When the street signs are unintelligible and it is 1 am in the morning, graffiti a regular thing, rough cab drivers, no matter how safe the locals say it is, if it is not a sure bet back to the hotel, nope. No more. Given it was Newyear's eve and people were out all over the city, it was still -5 celsius, foggy, we awoke at 3:00 am the previous morning to catch our flight from Paris, and I was freezing cold to the point of shivering.

After spending a pleasant couple hours eating pizza with the best cheese toppings I have ever tasted we then walked around to see the New Years celebrations. We tried going home at a reasonable 10:30 pm. First, we hailed a taxi. They did not speak English and we could not communicate which hotel we were staying at. So we tried to take the familiar tram back to the airport where earlier in the day there had been a line-up of taxis who knew the hotel. The hotel was a mile away from the airport. Although we could not walk because it was rural, barren, and there were no walking roads. When we arrived at the airport after 20 minutes of freezing breeze on the tram, there was nothing. The doors were open and lights on but it was almost dead except for the stray dogs trying to come in the rotating door. The german shepherd made it in while his companion barked from the outside. By now it was after midnight. We found a pay phone, but could not call because of language. Thankfully we found an English speaking man who told us to go back to the city center and find a taxi. So we did. Back into town trying not to nod off on the tram, still freezing cold. There was an old lady sitting directly in front of me watching us. I wonder what she was thinking. Miriam was sound asleep with her head on my lap. This not what I would call fun. We made it, found a taxi we could communicate enough with and made it home. We arrived back at the hotel at 1:30 am to our warm cozy beds.

January 1 was supposed to be a straight bus ride to our authentic Bulgarian restaurant at 7:00 pm, but we found ourselves wandering in the dark, surrounded by trashy graffiti covered buildings with barred windows and doors. It was not a pleasant stroll through the city center. Nope. 5:00 pm, that's it, from now on. 5:00 pm. Our hotel serves dinner. We ended up eating in a Bulgarian McDonalds an hour after walking around. We found a taxi immediately after eating and he knew where the hotel was. Phew. Thank you, Lord!

We are learning our English speaking limits in a Balkan region. Most well-educated people, desk workers, and waiters are actually very fluent here, more so than France, but many people on the street and taxi drivers do not speak much at all. And of course, the letters are all Cyrillic. Street signs and navigation tools are out of reach. Justin is finding his normal magical map reading does not work here. Never in our lives have guided tours been attractive when traveling for an explorer like Justin. But...... And he is actually having to ask people for "¡help!" in a very real way!

We are safe back in our hotel watching tv and drinking wine.

New Year's eve, pleasant stroll area.

Concert celebration. Our passports were checked at the gate by guards. An English singing Roma was performing on stage. It was surprisingly sparse at the city center's main celebrations considering 1.3 million people live here. It felt like a small celebration.

Bulgaria does not mess around. No cargo vans were going to get through 3 rows of these blockades! One row had dump trucks, one row military, and one row of buses all lined up like these 4 trucks.